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For four days at the start of July, the town of Leonidio stops being a place you pass through on the way to the beach and becomes a stage. Melitzazz ran for the fourteenth time from 2 to 5 July 2026, under the theme “Communities” — and, as it has been since the beginning, it was entirely free.

There is no festival site, no gate and no wristband. The programme happens in the squares, in the streets and in the open spaces of the town, across seven parallel strands: music, visual arts, photography, cinema, nature, and a full programme for children that ran from face painting and a climbing wall to performances and workshops in the fields.

The name is a joke that turned into an institution — melitzana, the aubergine, and jazz. The aubergine in question is the Tsakonian aubergine of Leonidio, a protected-origin variety that is longer, sweeter and less bitter than the ones you know, and the festival takes visitors out to the fields where it grows. Around it, the organisers weave the rest of what Tsakonia has kept: the Tsakonian dialect, a language descended from ancient Doric and still spoken in a handful of villages here; the weaving; the dance.

The music runs late and it is not background. The 2026 programme closed with ZAGAR, moving between Greek and Balkan material and their own compositions, with bagpipes, bass, drums and traditional percussion.

If you are planning around it, plan early. The festival costs nothing to attend, but Leonidio and the coast below it have a finite number of beds, and the first week of July is not the moment to arrive hoping. Melitzazz has kept to early July for years; watch melitzazz.gr for the 2027 dates.

Where to stay in Plaka Leonidiou → · Across South Kynouria →

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